The medieval Kedus (Holy or St.) Raguel and Kedus Elias Rock Hewn Bete Christian (Christian House or Church) remains under the radar in Addis Abeba, so much so that three front desk employees at the National Tour Operation office just off Meskel Square did not know about it, and half a dozen employees at the headquarters of the Tourism and Culture Commission debated about its existence for 10 minutes before concluding that the only rock hewn church in Addis Abeba was the mostly collapsed Washa Mikael Bete Christian.

Not only is the Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Bete Christian intact, it still has an ark of sorts that once held its tabots, replicas of the tablets of the 10 Commandments, which have been moved to the adjacent towering church, of the same name, built by Emperor Menilik II.

Emperor Menilik II’s church, was the first modern church built in Addis Abeba, and, as such, is a historical site in its own right. Having the same name as the rock hewn church, it helps to keep the latter’s existence hidden. If one asks about the Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Bete Christian near Entoto, they may only hear about the one built by Emperor Menilik II, and if they go there, they may not think to look for the rock hewn church, which is only a stone’s throw away.

Emperor Menilik II’s Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Bete Christian is much easier to find, as it dominates the ridge with its white arched architecture, similar to his Entoto Palace (except that it is octagonal) and stands at least 25 metres high.

The rock hewn church is cut into the side of the top of the ridge, hidden in a dilapidated courtyard behind a locked gate. Unlike the newer church, it cannot be seen from the paved road on the top of the ridge, though the road is almost built on top of it.

The rock hewn church itself, is nothing like Lalibela’s churches, but it is more than a cave (unlike Tekle Haimanot’s Cave at Debre Libanos). One can see the chisel marks on the church’s walls and ceilings, and the rooms of the church have a deliberate circular floor plan, sort of like a flower. There are four rooms in all ranging in size from four square metres to 16sqm.

The hewn rock is similar to that of Lalibela, soft and red but firm. And like some of the churches there, it has a hideous metal roof protecting its openings from the wind and rain. However, unlike Lalibela’s churches, it does not have ornate carvings or paintings.

Menilik II’s church, on the other hand, does have nice paintings dating from three years after the church’s construction, according to the official guide. The paintings depict the different ways the apostles, the Virgin Mary, and Jesus died; the miracles of Jesus; Satan, hell, and the judgment; and an Ethiopian Orthodox Church assembly.

Its original aluminium shingle roof lies stacked in the back of the compound, replaced by a corrugated metal roof, courtesy of Emperor Haile Selassie I. Its wood, including the railings that are exposed to the elements, are in surprisingly good condition for being so old.

Including these two churches, there are seven sights to see at Entoto: the views of Addis Abeba, Entoto Natural Park, Entoto Maryam Bete Christian, the historical museum, Menilik’s Palace, and of course the above mentioned Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Bete Christians.

Washa Mikael, on the other hand, does not have as much to offer, is no longer intact, and requires a 30 minute to 60 minute hike uphill. The road to the two Kedus Raguel and Kedus Elias Bete Christians is a paved continuation of the road to Entoto, making it very convenient to visit. Even if minibus taxis are used to reach Entoto, one can easily follow the paved road to the left (west) and up the ridge to the church, covering the one kilometre distance on foot.